National Geographic : 1938 Jan
MAGYAR MIRTH AND MELANCHOLY The market was zoned. Here was poultry; there, sauerkraut and pickles; yon der, cheeses. Crisp cabbage mountains sur veyed a vegetable kingdom. Here were neat piles, each heap containing seven or eight items perhaps a carrot, half an onion, a turnip, a cabbage quarter, some greens, a parsnip, and part of a rutabaga. "Vege table soup for four," said Ru dolf Balogh. "It costs a cent." We walked past coopers' stocks - barrels, kegs, and tubs. Here were rope makers' displays, or brooms and brushes spread upon the pave ment. There sat a fur-clad weaver of baskets and here a cobbler. A blacksmith flailed his arms to keep them warm. Around him were handmade shovels, hoes, and hayforks. r'hotograph cy Kudolt lialogh BAREFOOT POWER SILENTLY SPINS THE POTTER'S WHEEL On a simple machine of wood, stone, and only a bit of iron-little changed since ancient Egyptians devised it-a Meztiur ceramics maker, his clayey fingers dipped often in water, shapes a whirling vase. It will dry awhile outdoors before it is baked and glazed in a crude kiln. Often, on such earthenware, appears an 18th-century motto: "No handicraft can with our art compare; for pots are made of what we potters are." None had handles; buyers make their own. Leaving the market, Rudy and I drove eastward to the dikes, somewhat back from the Tisza River, which protect low-lying farm land. Strips of river bank and wooded islands formed by quiet bayous are not so defended. There dwell pioneers. Rudy and I followed a trail by a slough. Ice formed slowly in pools beside it. A damp man fished from a boat, and as we paused by the warmth of an ashen phantom of a fire he had built on the bank, he rowed ashore and greeted us. He had learned English in a British prison camp. "I ran Austrian messages," he said, pulling little baked potatoes from the ashes and dividing them. "We just caught a carp," he continued. "We'll broil it. Do you like nuts?" I nodded. From the ashes now he raked scores of hard-shelled, black, thumb size water chestnuts that might have been skulls of sharp-horned little lizards.