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National Geographic : 1970 Feb
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KODACHROME BYJOHNCRAIGHEADQ) N.G.S . Hardy survivor of pioneer days, an abandoned homestead overlooks the Salmon near Campbells Ferry Ranch. Karen Craighead and her brother Derek inspect the cabin of hand hewn timbers and shakes. In 1861 and 1898 the discovery of gold brought hundreds of prospectors to this craggy fastness. Both times the diggings quickly petered out, and the fortune seekers moved on. The harsh land attracted few permanent settlers. The tumbling waters of the Middle Fork had dropped our party 2,600 vertical feet in less than a hundred miles. We'd descend more gradually-yet more dangerously-on the Salmon. This would be a more powerful river, with larger rapids and rougher water. But we knew our sturdy rubber rafts would meet the challenge, and we had complete confidence in our trim 14-foot kayaks. Perhaps we entered the Salmon with too much assurance. Ten miles downstream, we reached Gunbarrel Rapids-not one of the river's most difficult obstacles. As John ran through, the stern of his kayak struck a rock. The jolt, followed by a slap from the fast cur rent, flipped him over. To his chagrin, John had to swim the length of the rapids. 228 Shortly thereafter, as darkness crept into the canyon, we pulled our flotilla ashore on a beautiful sand beach flanked by towering ponderosa pines. The current raced past the opposite shore, but on our side of the river a calm, clear lagoon mirrored the incomparable scenery that surrounded us. By the time the evening shadows had climbed from water to mountaintops, our camp chores were finished. Soon night shroud ed our peaceful, slumbering camp. The wheez ing hunger call of a young great horned owl sounded from the pines overhead, then the deep, resonant answering hoot of its parent. Few of us were awake to listen. Pushing on next day, we spotted a small sand bar adjacent to a cliff. Water had long
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