National Geographic : 1970 Jul
south Newfoundland coast. I have visited many on cruises out of Baddeck. The wildly beautiful Grey River is my favorite, and I saved it for the climax of the cruise. While the yawl lay anchored in a mountain girt basin at the head of navigation, the crew would go on one final fishing expedition. This would take two days, for the best of the river's fine salmon pools lie half a day's hard hike upstream. The entrance to the Grey can be risky. When the tides are moving and the wind is south, its mouth becomes a racing maelstrom. Therefore I planned to come in at slack tide, and in daylight. But a call at the Ramea Is lands off White Bear Bay took longer than ex pected, so that darkness caught us still at sea. "What's more, the tide started out an hour ago," said Dick Lemmerman, taking bearings on the single white flasher that marks the Grey's mouth. "It might be a good idea to heave to outside until morning."