National Geographic : 1970 Jul
Green meadows in the sea urging, White Mist ran easily, her cutwater chuckling happily through the swells. Sea miles fell one by one into her foaming wake. I sat alone on the bow but was not lonely, for many creatures of the wild waters come to visit a ship on night passage. Porpoises tor pedoed past, leaving ghostly phosphorescent trails. Pale ghosts in the stern light's glow, gulls searched the wake for edibles we might throw over the side. An orange blaze flickered on the eastern horizon. I leaped to my feet, sure it was a ship afire. But it was only the moon rising from the waves, and for the rest of the lovely night it was our bright companion. Port Cartier Trades Ore for Grain Bound for Sept Iles, we paid quick nonstop visits to Pointe aux Anglais and Port Cartier. The name of the former comes from a St. Lawrence tragedy. In 1711, long before Wolfe's victory, a gale NUGGETS OF HOSPITALITY in the fog-swept Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Magdalen Islands gave White Mist's voyagers a welcome pause from the chills and rigors of big-water sailing. French speaking residents of Amherst Island (above) drove eight ships of a British fleet on the Pointe's vicious reefs. Nearly 900 soldiers lost their lives; beneath the dark waters yet lie cannon and the bones of ships. Port Cartier stands as an example of what modern engineers can do. A few years ago a small logging town occupied the site. Then came a crew with explosives and giant ma chines, and, almost overnight, cut a deep harbor from solid rock. Now White Mist cir cled around in the port beside a complex of huge new buildings that serve a uniquely Canadian trade. From the Great Lakes the slab-sided lakers, like those Takis Veliotis builds, come to Port Cartier via the St. Lawrence Seaway laden with grain. The new port's elevators suck out the grain for transfer to ocean-going ships. Glistening iron-ore concentrate brought in by the trainload from a Quebec mine 150 miles inland replaces it in the ships' holds for the run back to the Great Lakes' steel mills.