National Geographic : 1970 Jul
structures of concrete, steel, and glass, for Ile Ste. Helene is the site of Expo 67, Canada's successful world exposition, still going strong three years after its opening.* It is now called "Man and His World." For the two days of our stay, we enjoyed forgotten luxuries. We soaked in hot showers and let restaurants ashore do our cooking and dishwashing. A huge crane in the marina re stepped our masts for the last time. Shackling the rigging into place, we worked to the music of bands at La Ronde, the "fun" section of Man and His World. Mayor of Montreal Takes the Wheel The "St. Lawrence crew" came aboard Tom Beers, a National Geographic Vice Pres ident, and navigator John O. Brotherhood of Hartford, Connecticut, with his wife and daughter. A note arrived from an old friend. "Welcome to Montreal. I propose an ex change," wrote Mayor Jean Drapeau. "I'll be your guide to my city if you'll let me sail White Mist." The mayor more than kept his part of the bargain. From the slopes of Mount Royal, the city's most conspicuous landmark, to its 28 vibrant heart, he arranged a tour such as few visitors ever receive. Rolling smoothly along modern freeways, we viewed a skyscraper studded metropolis against the glorious back ground of the Laurentian Mountains. Modern as it is, Montreal has taken pains not to bury its past. Its Old Quarter survives; one may journey from a French city of the 17th century to a counterpart of New York or Paris simply by stepping across a street. Reading Montreal's violent history, I some times wonder why it was not abandoned soon after its founding in 1642. The Iroquois raided it time after time. American troops occupied it during the Revolution while Benedict Arnold tried in vain to reduce Quebec. War, pestilence, riot-Montreal has survived them all to become a thriving giant of two and a half million people. The mayor got his trick at the wheel of a White Mist flying a huge borrowed Montreal city flag. As we returned to the marina, attend ants came out in a powerboat to guide us to *See "Canada Marks Her First Century," by Melville Bell Grosvenor, and "Montreal Greets the World," by Jules B. Billard, both in NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, May 1967, with accompanying map of Eastern Canada.