National Geographic : 1973 Nov
I LINGERED five days in Guaymas, savoring the life of its busy market, learning the limits of my tolerance for hot tamales. It is a peaceful place, little disturbed since 1854, when a French nobleman, Gaston Raousset de Boulbon, at tacked the port in an effort to found a Sonoran empire. He was killed in the attempt, and Sonora is still a state in Mexico. One day I drove into the high mountains northwest of Guaymas. I followed a road built to reach one of the micro wave stations, erected in the past decade, that have at last given Mexico adequate telephone communications. Narrow, steep, winding, the way terrified me but gave a magnificent view over the Gulf of California in late afternoon. As late as the first quarter of this century it might have been dangerous for a stranger to venture into the hills. This was a stronghold of the Yaqui Indians, not well known in the U. S., but just as fierce as their cousins the Apaches. Today the Homes on wheels roll to holidays south of Mazatlan. Government trucks called "Green Angels" cruise the highways to aid drivers in distress. Each year two million United States citizens, half of them in motor vehicles, visit Mexico-90 percent of its tourist trade.