National Geographic : 1975 Mar
A midsummer's Christmas Day in Tierra del Fuego begins with lambs ready for an asado, a barbecue (left), at Estancia Harberton, managed by Tom and Natalie Goodall. The hard work of an all but self-sufficient life builds trencherman appetites. As seen from the window of Tom Goodall's most essential vehicle-his light plane-the ranch houses notch the center of a small peninsula (below, left) jutting into Beagle Channel. Named for the ship Charles Darwin sailed on, the channel offers the last protected passage between Pacific and Atlantic before Cape Horn. Although Antarctica, part of which Argentina claims, lies less than 700 miles away, Harberton enjoys a surprisingly temperate climate and a rare, richly diverse flora, the subject of Natalie Good all's botanical studies. For the tables of Europe, fishermen haul nets clambering with centolla crabs to be packed in Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego. Though living nearly poles apart, centollas closely resemble Alaska king crabs in appearance and taste. Cold, hard, and lonely work brings good wages to the crabbers, most of whom are Chileans. Which Way Now for Argentina?