National Geographic : 1977 Jan
shot a man on the highway. Vengeance came swiftly. The tribesmen cornered the seven outlaws in a wheat field and mowed them down as if they had been stalks of grain. The goal of eastbound travelers through the world's most famous pass is one of the world's oldest living cities. Situated on a broad plain in the settled districts, surround ed by wheat fields and orchards, Peshawar has seen at least twenty centuries. Its centerpiece, as of old, is Bala Hisar, the High Fort, a great brick dreadnought on a sea of roofs and treetops. I stood on the highest battlement one morning with Col. Ata-ur Rahman Kallue of the Frontier Corps. "What you see now is British," he said. "They reconstructed a Sikh fort. There were other forts beneath that one, possibly going back to before the time of the Moguls." Somewhere in the rubble depths of this Storm's over, and the first in a line of buses gingerly fords a flooded road near Peshawar. The number of vehicles a tribesman owns adds to his status, as commercial hauling grows. Brightly painted trucks pass daily through Peshawar, the frontier's main trade depot. Lacking abridge, afamily moves grain by cable car across the Chitral River (above).