National Geographic : 1998 Oct
Behind the relatively stable appearance of S HAT CHUCK JUHN noticed most was the quietness. The road was full of people, but there were no voices. Hundreds of people thousands-walked past him. This many voices would make a football stadium thunder. But they were silent. They just walked, so many people that they filled the road, edge to edge, as far as Juhn could see, and all he heard was the soft, weary whisper of feet on the road. The people used every last scrap of energy just to keep moving. "People at the margin don't mess around," remembered Juhn, an American aid worker who was in Rwanda at the time. "They didn't say a word. Total silence. They were so washed out and skinny; it was like some other reality moving through." Juhn was watching one of the great single movements of people in recent years. It hap pened in December 1996. It was the sudden Pondering his next move, Jose Alonzo peers under a fence at the U.S.- Mexico border in Tijuana. His first attempt to sneak into the U.S. failed. Now, like countless of his countrymen, he waits for an opening to dash north, get a job-and then lie low.