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National Geographic : 1982 Jun
Contents
CAPIV STIP Brticddthsln 9A'7I i 80t emnwihwne rd lins etwenSouh-estAficaan ceta Afi viateZm ziRvr 44 ictoria * , 44all4 4s 4 4 44 44 4 * 4m 4 48 IV YERRON RIER bodrti oterie aid lad Teprr waerouse thog th itrople. The rier hol poeta fo rigtn anelcriyn pato4 onr tha is twc the 4 sie44aifrna yeh 44 onl 1 4 12 it ouain ARA 84,6 sq kme (31,22e q i) POUAIN 1,04,00 hal are Ovmo wh liv in th not (m4 ine at rih) 10 pecnaeo Euopa decet t4e rest blacks an Coores wer assig44d4 CAI4L idok pop 9000 Merpoia are inldsth4 lc su4r of Kautr an hClue districtof 4hoas4l GOENET Desit reeae peiinngth Unte Nain by Afia leaers So4t Afic cotne to conro *une Aliace whic base 44rsntto on etni a4444 at4o44 SWPO wit UN4upot opposes "Yes, by law blacks can travel and shop and live where they please-or where they can afford," said Mr. Solomon Mifima, an Ovambo politician whom I had met by chance in a city park. "It's a beginning. Europeans have learned that the skies don't fall when the Whites Only signs come down. But the real apartheid still exists. Blacks and Coloureds are underpaid, ill-educated, badly housed. That won't really change un til we have independence, with leaders cho sen by majority vote." Mr. Mifima was imprisoned not long ago for his democratic beliefs-ironically, not by South Africa but by his brothers in revolt. As a high-ranking member of SWAPO's government-in-exile, he joined An dreas Shipanga, a co-founder of the group, in demanding that long-overdue party elec tions be held. With hundreds of supporters, they were promptly jailed in Zambia at the request of SWAPO President Sam Nujoma. European civil rights activists won their release, and now they head a party called SWAPO-D (for Democrats), with headquarters THE SMALL POPULATION in Windhoek. (1.2 persons per square kilometer) is concentrated We had dined in on arable and grazing lands. the elegant rooftop restaurant of the Kalahari Sands Hotel, sipping fine South African wine with slabs of justly famous Namibian beef. Beyond the elegance I could see the lights of Katutura, home to most of Windhoek's blacks. In the Herero tongue, Katutura means "We have no permanent place," and though that irony might have escaped the city fathers who built it in 1958, the name described precisely what they had in mind. Blacks had been forced from their old location in Windhoek, which many considered a permanent home, to the new suburb's tightly controlled rental quarters. On December 10, 1959-as it happened, Human Rights Day-police opened fire on a crowd of unarmed protesters, killing 13. 765
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