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suspected, was Padre Martinez-a priest "of violent, uncurbed passions." Here fiction and history clash, for His panic New Mexicans regard Antonio Jose Martinez (1793-1867) as a cultural hero. Thomas E. Chavez, a historian at the state museum in Santa Fe, explains: "Martinez created some of our first schools and printed books. Yes, he fought Lamy; the French man was too orthodox and ascetic for this country. When Lamy died, people venerat ed him. But did they finish his cathedral towers?" In his final years Cather's Latour built a small country home near Tesuque. He grew apricots and cherries while his cathedral rose in Santa Fe. Fifteen miles south of there he had found the right stone in a solitary hill, "yellow, a strong golden ochre, very much like the gold of the sunlight." That hill over looks the railroad terminus for Santa Fe. Coming and going from New Mexico, Willa Cather always stopped here. The village is called Lamy. ed the losses that time brought: changes of residence, deaths in her family. The place that made her secure was Grand Manan Island, off the east coast of Canada. Standing by her cabin in Whale Cove, I can see why Willa Cather came here so often. Surrounded by the changes of tide, rain, and fog, she lived on enduring rock. This island must have awakened memories of all her life and work. The cabin is plain and weathered, gray as a mill in Virginia. Her study window faces the sea, which Pursuinghigh ideals with great practicalskill,Jean Baptiste Lamy, first Archbishop of New Mexico (above), was a hero to Willa Cather,and she fictionalized his life in "Death Comesfor the Archbishop." At his country lodge near Tesuque, Lamy built a chapel with hand paintedwindows to remind him of the stained glass in French cathedrals(right). Indians at a pueblo near Taos run a relay race to celebrate the festival of San Lorenzo (left). Cather's archbishopsaw in the Indians something "youthful and elastic."