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National Geographic : 1982 Aug
Contents
oversize wheels for deeply rutted tracks and flooded areas.In a land with few paved roads, vast areasstill lie untouched by Paraguay'srisingfortunes. there has been so much progress that never again will a caudillo be able to totally domi nate this country. When Stroessner finally goes, perhaps there will be a military civilian junta in charge while things are sorted out. And then-who knows-will Paraguay at last achieve democracy?" But others were less sanguine. "After the Somoza killing," one of them reminded me, "the military were everywhere. I think they will take control if the president dies, and we may return to the old ways again." He sighed softly. "It could be hard on us, since your government no longer sends out such strong signals on human rights. The jails could fill up again." Paraguay,Paradoxof South America Not long after, I shared a bench in the Pla za de los Heroes with a stranger. He too talked of his country's progress. Then as he stood up to leave, he turned to add a thought. "Those other things you men tioned; the ugly things. If they happened, they were the price this country paid for what we have." I stayed for a while in the gathering dark ness, musing about human costs and na tional attainments. Then I left too. As I walked across the park toward my hotel, the big neon sign in the distance began to flash its nightly mes sage: Peace, work, and well-being with Stroessner. O 269
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