National Geographic : 1988 Feb
training course that teaches them not only about their own culture but also about modern park man agement. Neidjie's son Jonathan Yarramarna is one of the trainees. We catch up with Jonathan one day as he visits his father. He is a robust young man with a charming smile. At first he is very shy, but over the months we get to know him better and come to appreciate his ready wit and friendship. We soon realize that the combined expectations of his elders and the park service have put an uneasy burden on his shoulders. As Jonathan says, "There are two sets of laws for us here- Aboriginal law and government law. That means we have to look after the country in two ways, which is pretty hard for us." After a few moments he adds, "But we can do it." Whenever he can, Jonathan goes to his tribal lands around Cannon Hill to hunt and to learn from his father. We accompanied Neidjie and Jonathan early one morning to a special and important site, an outcrop of sandstone called Hawk Dreaming. Halfway up its slope is a gallery not only of spe cial mystical significance but also of personal importance to Neid jie. He spoke at length to Jona than in their own language about the spirit of Garrkine, the brown falcon, which resides here. On the sandstone, among images of fish and spirit beings, was a small hand stencil outlined in white. Neidjie turned to us with a smile. "I made it when I was young fella, maybe eight or nine years old, when I came here with my father." Later Jonathan, accompa nied by his father, put his hand stencil on the rocks close to Hawk Dreaming, a symbolic commitment to his heritage. HIDDENGALLERY depicts a freshwatercrocodile. The rep tile's eggs, such as thosefrom a nest discoveredby Nipper Kapirigi (below), are eaten hard-boiled.The dwindling ranks of the Gagudju elders were further reduced when Kapirigidied last April.