National Geographic : 1960 Oct
here not so long ago that went hard aground. A week later only the masts were visible. And the following week, nothing. The cur rents dug her grave in 70 feet of mud. And we've got tidal bores the likes of which ye've never seen. But why don't ye come with me and take a look?" We had heard about the wall of water that races upstream in such rivers as the Hooghly, created when the capacity of the channel is overtaxed by the volume of the © NATIONALGEOGRAPHICSOCIETY 447 Helen and Frank Schreider capture the essence of India in this profile of life along the Ganges. Traveling in an amphibious jeep christened Tor tuga II, the California couple spent five months tracing the river from source to mouth. Accom panied by Dinah, their German shepherd, they scaled mountains, swam rivers, and battled mud. The Schreiders enjoy tea (above) in Buddh Gaya, cradle of Buddhism. Mahabodhi Temple in the background glorifies the Gautama Buddha, who attained enlightenment here 25 centuries ago after meditating 49 days beneath a pipal tree. Testing Tortuga (left), Helen Schreider pilots the craft past a temple to the goddess Kali on the Hooghly, an outlet of the Ganges. The authors wore out the first Tortuga-Span ish for turtle-during an 18-month drive down the Pan-American Highway from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego. A new NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC assignment has taken them to Indonesia.