National Geographic : 1961 Jul
of milk a year is a nice average, with 4 per cent fat content. "We guard the quality of our cattle be cause it's the third highest source of income in Tirol. Lumber is second. First come the visitors, like you." Milk Runs Down the Mountain A wise old farmer from St. Johann-in Tirol, Eduard Angerer, invited me for a traditionally happy time: the day the cows come home into the valley, after a summer on the high meadows (page 125). Up there I saw my first milk pipeline, of plastic, two inches in diameter. Almost three miles long, it led to the road in the valley, where a truck collected the milk. Milk ran an hour a day. The rest of the time water from a mountain spring kept the pipe clean. The need was old, but the technique was brilliantly new. On my way back to Innsbruck I stopped in Kitzbiihel. Population: 7,000; yearly visitors: 62,000. Roulette wheels spun in the Golden Griffin, a centuries-old hostelry turned luxury hotel. Kitzbiihel's old stone houses reminded me of how the mountains, in one way or another, have bestowed bounty on the area. Besides providing building material, the rock-boned slopes once yielded metals that made the town rich. The silver and copper in the Kitzbiihel Alps gave out about 1650. Today Kitz biihel has a gold mine: skiers. Until about 1900, Tirolers viewed ski ing as strictly utilitarian. Today, it is sport; winter makes every slope around Kitzbiihel but a stage for slalom and schussing. Evening finds the ladies in var ied after-ski fashions-mink, tight sweat ers, toreador pants of gold lame. The young Kitzbiiheler lightly turns to ski teaching. Max had briefed me: "A school teacher gets 2,000 schillings [80 dollars] a month; a ski teacher may earn twice as much. Ski teachers also get around. In the cafes you'll hear them Sleigh Bells Jingling, Riders Glide Through a Sparkling Winter Scene For the skier, Tirol's winter-long flooring of snow ranks as its finest asset. The less athletic, snug under lap robes, sample crisp air and brilliant skies in more lei surely fashion. Archduke Leopold V built this lake side chapel near Seefeld in 1628. EKTACHROMEBY PHOTOLOBL © N.GS.