National Geographic : 1961 Dec
seems to me that less of it is leaving us now." "And I guess some leave and come back?" I suggested, knowing that Knight had. "I'll tell you why. You can be on the best trout stream in the country within an hour. I know a hairdresser who leaves his salon an hour early, at four o'clock, and by eight o'clock he's back home with a deer. The boys who leave here want to come back to this; so we're going to make it pos sible for them to get jobs." Here again was the same recurrent theme, this awareness of past and future, the lure of the wilds and the pull of progress. Cobblestones Vanish in St. John's But before I could ponder it deeply, I had one more province to visit, the Island of Newfound land - so salty that stenographers call their boss "skipper" and businessmen bellow sea chanties under the shower. The capital, St. John's, has been sacked by pi rates and burned many times, by the Dutch, by the French, and by accident. It's an outpost so easterly that ships from New York bound for Liverpool are one-third of the way across when they pass it. I arrived with romantic wartime memories of a city foreign in appearance and history. From the Newfoundland Hotel I strolled past the col umned Colonial Building. From here the British governed Newfoundland until 1949 when the col ony joined Canada, the result of a referendum that narrowly carried under the coaxing and haranguing of the present Premier, Joey Small wood.* The building's imported Irish stone was *See "Newfoundland, Canada's New Province," by Andrew H. Brown, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, June, 1949. 808 Perce Rock, a massive mono lith on the Gasp6 Peninsula, bulks above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where the village of Perce borders a half-sau cer cove. Bonaventure Island, a refuge for sea birds, looms across the sound. Freshly baked bread draws youngsters to an outdoor oven in Grande Vallee, Gaspe. Cheerful trencherman Lo renzo Boulianne assembles seven of his ten children for dinner in Arvida,Quebec.Mrs. Boulianne serves; she eats on ly when the others finish. EKTACHROMEBY GEORGEHUNTER ( N.G .S .