National Geographic : 1961 Dec
its separate schools and hospitals run by Roman Catholic clergy. Just as Canada resists the impact of out siders, so Quebec struggles against the Anglo Saxons. A former Governor General, Lord Durham, saw Canada as "two nations war ring in the bosom of a single state." Now a fresh wave of nationalism was sweeping Quebec. The week before, a friend of mine was dining in Murray's in Montreal when 70 French employees of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation marched in and de manded that their orders be taken in French. They'd been eating there in English for years. Murray's now has menus in two languages. I asked a friend in the CBC about it. "It's true," he said. "Not long ago we set tled a strike with our French-speaking union, and Le Devoir in Montreal ran headlines de manding we fire our negotiator. His telegram agreeing to the union demands had been writ ten in English." Traveling by train, I followed the Ottawa River to the St. Lawrence. There Montreal, Canada's largest city, sprawls over its island, even up the slopes of Mount Royal. Sometimes called "the Paris of North America," Mont real is a city with indisputable charm and sophistication. It is also a manufacturing cen ter, the hub of rail and air networks, and a world port 800 miles from the sea (page 799). Skyscrapers Change City's Face I emerged from the hillside station of the Canadian National Railways, and change struck me like a physical blow. Gone were the shabby shops of yesteryear; within six blocks soared seven new skyscrapers. I lunched on a pedigreed lobster at Pauz6's, a century-old sea-food bar, and spent the afternoon in nostalgic sightseeing. The Old Quarter was still a maze of twisting cobbled streets, smoky sailors' taverns, and Louis Quinze churches. Bonsecours Market still sold home-cured tobacco and pigeons for pies. Sherbrooke Street was still elegant, with Huge Lock Lowers Boats in a Giant Bathtub on the Trent Canal Here, at Peterborough, Ontario, the world's largest hydraulic lift seesaws two water filled compartments. In less than eight minutes these boats dropped 65 feet to the down stream lane. Walled pool between the towers rises to discharge upstream traffic. Trent Canal, which links Lake Ontario and Georgian Bay, saves 430 miles. Speedboaters cruise among the forest-clad Thirty Thousand Islands of Georgian Bay, an arm of Lake Huron. KODACHROMESBY WALTER MEAYERSEDWARDS,NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICSTAFF (C)N.G.S.