National Geographic : 1961 Dec
Vancouver towers gleam at dusk; marine gasoline stations appear to blaze on the harbor waters. seaward slopes of the mountains are a rain forest of giant ferns where Douglas firs grow bark up to a foot thick.* British Columbia's capital, Victoria, is farther from Canada's east coast than that coast is from London, England, and for the last 500 miles you are flying over mountains -the Rockies, the Columbias, and the Coast Mountains. They wall off the province. It stands alone, organically part of the U. S. west coast, a Canadian province only because, in 1885, the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven through and around these peaks with The Author: Alan Phillips, who has traveled his native Canada from coast to coast and into its Arctic regions, was born in Pinkerton, Ontario, and now lives in Stratford. Since 1945 he has writ ten for Canadian magazines, movies, radio, and television, and produced a hook-length study (The Living Legend, Little, Brown & Co.) on the tra ditions of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. 772 the help of thousands of Chinese coolies. This was growth forced by the United States. The railway was a lure to bring British Columbia into confederation before it was overrun from the south. Tea and Crumpets in Victoria At Vancouver, on the mainland, I trans shipped from plane to ferry, threaded the maze of Gulf Islands, and glided into the heart of Victoria, on Vancouver Island. Victoria's harbor looks like a stage set. Its small stone jetty, set off by gardens, is dwarfed by the fat-domed capitol and the stately Em press Hotel. Flowers bloom in lamppost bas kets (page 770). It seems, as described by a visitor, "so English it brings tea to your eves." '"Sec in tleN'NATONAL. (GEO(;RAPt1 "Across ('anada by M7ackenzie's Track," by Ralph (ray, . \August, 155; and "British Columbina: Life Begins at 10()," by David S. Hoyer, August, 195S.