National Geographic : 1962 Jun
Sheep and skyscrapers: Yugoslavia blends the old and the new. Apartments soar in along the Danube to Belgrade, where photog rapher James Blair was waiting for me. The summer harvest was in full swing, and Czech and Russian-made combines were busy in the wheat fields. Truck crops, however, were still being harvested by hand, usually by women. Hungarian farms have been collectivized, but most families have small plots where they can grow food for their own use and for sale. Those privately tended plots were the best cared for I saw in Hungary. Crusader Blood Shed at Zemun I had rather hoped, I must confess, to have trouble of some sort at Zemun, in Yugoslavia. The Crusaders knew it as Semlin. It was in this ancient city, facing Belgrade across the River Sava, that the Crusaders first shed blood. Runciman's account of the trouble lays the blame entirely upon the cross-bearers. 764 Walter the Penniless, one of Peter's lieuten ants, had refused to wait for his leader at Cologne. Marching fast, he and a few thou sand comrades-in-arms had come to Zemun in May, 1096. The Byzantine governor at Belgrade was dumbfounded when Walter de manded food for his multitudes. He sent to Constantinople for instructions, but Walter was in no mood to await the reply. His men pillaged the countryside. This is rich country and six weeks later might have been able to feed the hungry Cru saders. But the harvest was not yet gathered, and there was little food to spare. Walter's men not only plundered the surrounding farms, but in Zemun a handful of them tried to rob a bazaar. They were captured, stripped, sent naked across the river to Belgrade, and their weapons and clothing hung upon the walls of Zemun as a warning to others.