National Geographic : 1963 Nov
is the dying note of a martial bugle call. Lights flicker among the Malay kampongs near the Astana, once the palace of the Brooke rajas. I soon stepped out of the past and into the 20th century-as Sarawak itself has done in the past 20 years. In their genuine anxiety to protect the indigenous people of Sarawak-even against education-the Brookes had held back progress. "Sarawak's change has been abrupt," said Information Officer Alastair Mor rison, a Peking-born Englishman who has always had his heart in Asia. "And we've been gathering pace year by year. Of course the first political parties have sprung up only in the past few years, and political leadership is still in the emergent stage. "But education has been widespread since the war. Malaria has been elim Pungent tang of dishes in Chinese Feast in a bowl keeps chopsticks flying. Ingredients: boiled noodles flavored with prawns, vegetables, and spices. This youngster eats at Singapore's Chinese food market, where shoppers can buy anything from a flying fox to a python still writhing on a meat hook. Mouth-watering aroma of satay-spicy bits of beef or lamb-rises from a charcoal cooker on Bugis Street. Each bite skewered on a stick, satay comes with rice cakes, cu cumbers, and peanut curry sauce. Customers pay according 760 to the number of sticks held at meal's end.