National Geographic : 1965 Jul
Kossuth for an overnight voyage to Mohacs, close to the Yugoslavian border (page 52). By pleasant coincidence, eight attractive girls showed up as shipmates. They were re turning to Mohacs after winning the four and eight-oar women's junior rowing cham pionships. Far into the cool, starry night the deck resounded with American and gypsy songs and the strumming of guitars. Mohacs, a comfortable country town, once was the scene of disaster: On August 29, 1526, Louis II of Hungary recklessly attacked 300,000 Turks. Louis drowned in his armor, and only 4,000 of his 28,000 Magyars sur vived. Now Hungarians shrug off trouble by saying, "More were lost at Mohacs." the American Food for Peace program, were stacked against the wall. From its mountainous hinterland, Yugo slavia feeds to the Danube two great tribu taries, the Drava and Sava. At the Sava's mouth stands Belgrade-the "white city" capital and showplace of Marshal Tito's non aligned Communist republic. An American, long resident in Belgrade, told us: "Yugoslavs on the whole aren't fanat ical Communists. The people-especially the young people-are more interested in Ameri can movies than in local politics." To us, Belgrade seemed to lean toward the West, in both its busy pace and its aluminum and-glass modernity (page 61).* We found KODACHROMEBY RICHARDS. DURRANCE() N.G.S . Quickly clearing Yugoslavian customs, we were welcomed by two sturdy lads from the Akademski Kajak Klub of Belgrade, who in their own red craft kept us company to the capital city. Only chains of barges broke the monotony of the riverscapes, but the villages were ab sorbing. People in the smallest places had heard on the radio of our coming; at times 150 to 200 would close in on our camp. Often we snapped a Polaroid picture in trade for directions to the local bakery, where hot bread from the brick oven was always superb. At some village bakeries bags of U. S. flour, marked with the clasped-hands seal of sharp contrast in the Kalemegdan, the great 18th-century fortress on a bluff originally oc cupied by the ancient Celts. We made camp close beneath it. Yugoslavs are early birds (office hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and great coffee drinkers. In cafes everywhere we saw workers pouring coffee from individual brass pots, gulping it down with bread, sausage, and eggs. In such a cafe, frank answers about Yugo slavia were given us by another American friend in Belgrade. Q. "Are the Yugoslavs content?" *See "Yugoslavia, Between East and West," by George W. Long, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, February, 1951.