National Geographic : 1966 Mar
of Lenin's tomb to watch the changing of the guard. As three trim soldiers goose-stepped from the Kremlin, we watched to see if they would succeed in taking their places at the precise moment when the clock on Spasskaya Tower struck the hour (page 307). "Perfect!" said Boris, beaming, as the click of their heels coincided exactly with the first "bong." Swimmers Splash Amid Swirling Snow On another day we visited GUM, the huge State Department Store (Gosudarstvennyy Universalnyy Magazin) across from the Kremlin (page 345). I had come to Moscow without a fur hat, and my Russian friends seemed worried that I would die of pneumo nia. The smart karakul caps were too expensive-$75 - but I found a muskrat one with ear flaps for $20. One of the strangest sights to me was the Moscow swimming pool-an enormous outdoor pool that oper ates even in below-zero weather. The water, of course, was heated, so a huge cloud of steam billowed up, 316 "World's most beautiful subway," say Muscovites of their Metro. But hurrying commuters rarely glance at the Stalin-era mosaics and chan deliers like these in Kiev Station. Nearly three million people a day pay 5 kopecks (about 5V1/2cents) to travel in cars that run smoothly and on time. Four-lane escalators whisk them to and from stations as much as 200 feet below city streets. Camped beneath an ornamental window, a subway hawker sells state lottery tickets for 30 kopecks. First prize: a small Moscow-made sedan worth about 3,500 rubles ($3,885).