National Geographic : 1967 Jul
not been disturbed for some seven centuries." As our jet boats cruised along a mile below Halls Crossing, about 95 miles from Wahweap near the mouth of a short side canyon called Lost Eden, I found that water had covered a rookery where I had once seen scores of great blue herons. Now, a lone bird took off, its huge wings beating in dignified retreat. Just as the herons of Halls Crossing are gone, so are the largest of the rapids in Glen Canyon. A placid lakescape appeared where I had watched kayakers ride white water near Bullfrog Creek. Another landmark I missed was what was left of Robert B. Stanton's giant dredge, aban doned in midstream after the failure of the engineer's gold mining scheme in 1901. Sev eral hundred prospectors had once worked in Glen Canyon. The gold, however, proved too difficult to obtain, and the men drifted away. Millions of Fish Planted by Airdrop The big attraction these days is fishing. Frank Wright, who has a marina and ferry at Halls Crossing (map, page 55), told me that 80 percent of those who launch their boats between there and Hite, 45 miles upstream, come mainly to wet a line. Age-old adversaries, land and water, wage a mute but mammoth battle in Glen Canyon. Assisted by man, the liquid realm triumphs. Four years ago kayaks slipped past sandy shores fretted with tama risk (right). High above the river-runners loomed a huge triangular cave, upstream from Hidden Passage and Music Temple. Today Powell blots out the ver dant bars and the winding river, and ripples to the very lip of the once lofty cave (above). When the lake rises another 75 feet, the cavern too will vanish.