National Geographic : 1968 Jul
where there is a little restaurant and a cluster of wooden houses. Far above, where the stream begins, is another group of homes. "If you'd like," said the mayor, "we'll stroll up and see the cheese making. It's at the top of this little hill." I looked the thousand feet straight up the sheer "little hill" and gasped. "I'm afraid it'll be a little dangerous for Donna and the twins..." I began, but Brian and Donnali were too quick for me. "Come on, Daddy," Brian shouted with the happy innocence of a 12-year-old. Then, be fore I could catch my breath to give him a lit tle fatherly advice about contradicting his elders, he was off at a run up the mountain, Donnali bouncing after him. Halfway up the trail is a grim reminder of the fact that Italy's mountain people did not take kindly to Nazi domination. A simple cross marks the spot where five partisans were shot. And the newness of the 30 houses at the top underscores the message on a plaque which explains that the village was destroyed by the Nazis in 1944 for sheltering partisans. Scaligeri Castle Once Sheltered Dante We spent the night back at La Peppa, and in the morning the mayor and his friends gathered to see us off. The twins said goodbye to the children they had met playing soccer in the piazza. Just as we got into our car, Si gnor Codega gave me a key chain holding some of the tiny bells which his factory makes for souvenirs. They hang from my car keys to day. And every time I hear the pleasant tinkle, Proud husbandman, 85-year-old Pietro Bonetti still tills 81/2 acres near Bardolino, growing grapes, olives, and corn. Signor Bonetti also owns three cows and sells the milk not used by his family; calves bring added income. "Hurry-up bread" bakes on an open hearth. Signora Maria Bo natti removes focaccia from a grill placed over burning grapevine trimmings. The name of this unleavened bread has become a col loquialism for anything made quickly, although Signora Bonatti kneaded her dough of flour, milk, and olive oil for nearly an hour.