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National Geographic : 1968 Oct
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"Stay in your autos; enjoy the bears at a distance," implore the rangers-obviously often in vain. One of an estimated 300 black bears roaming the park gives motorists a thrill. Rangers trap the boldest animals and exile them to remote preserves outside the park. Pine, oak, hemlock, yellow poplar, tangled thickets of rhododendron and mountain laurel -how could nature possibly pack that much greenery onto these steep hills, we wondered. Those close-packed leaves exude water vapor and oils-and, according to scientists, this creates the "smoke" that gives the mountains their name (pages 544-5). Wheeling into the entrance to Chimneys Campground, our truck was slowed to a crawl. A big black bear ambled down the road ahead of us, surrounded by tourists as he sauntered from garbage can to garbage can. And thus we met "Yogi." For eight years he had been the campground's most popular garbage collector. We stared fascinated at the very small clearance between Yogi's sagging 524 stomach and the ground. Obviously he had a good thing going. Chimneys, one of the park's oldest camp grounds, lacked the electric lights of its newer neighbors. But there was a rushing creek to lure my barefoot son (pages 536-7), and Yogi to entertain us. We had been well forewarned: To get a campsite, come early in the day, preferably in midweek. We did so and were rewarded with a pleasingly uncrowded feeling. Millions Live Within a Day's Drive Only a small fraction of the park's visitors come to use its 1,500 campsites. Most stay in motels outside the park and drive in on day trips. Viewing the horrendous traffic jams
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