National Geographic : 1969 Sep
pilgrims as does the city Swift knew-and more of Joyce's Dublin survives. At nearby Sandycove, beside the Irish Sea, stands the 150-year-old tower in which he set the open ing chapter of Ulysses. Davy Byrne's public house in Duke Street-the "moral pub" of Ulysses-still opens its doors daily, though the sawdust-littered floors have given way to wall-to-wall carpet, mellow lighting, and the buzz of cocktail-hour conversation. Mr. James Mulligan's establishment in Poolbeg Street, on the other hand, goes its way agreeably unchanged; printers from the Irish Press still crowd the backroom "snug" where Joyce wrote some of the short stories in Dubliners. Davy Byrne's and Mulligan's bring up another subject, not necessarily literary Ireland's nearly 12,000 licensed drinking establishments. The Dublin institution that caters in turn to the pubs-Guinness produces the lion's share of beer consumed in Ireland -o ccupies a sprawling 59-acre site beside the River Liffey. "But we don't make it with Liffey water," Billy Porter told me the minute I shook his hand. "That's an old heresy. We pump as much as 23/4 million gallons of spring water a day from 25 miles away in County Kildare." He ticked off the facts: Largest private em ployer in Ireland, with 4,000 workers. A mil lion pints produced in an average day. Almost as obvious on the Dublin scene as the pubs and the ubiquitous Guinness bill boards are those passports to instant wealth, tickets on the Irish Hospitals' Sweepstakes. "They cost a pound each, and find buyers in something like 147 countries," Val Joyce told me in the Sweepstakes' sprawling build ing in suburban Ballsbridge. "There are four races a year, and after each one, winning tick ets can be redeemed for as much as £50,000 -the equivalent of $120,000." KODACHROME BYJAMESA. SUGAR 365 N.G.S.