National Geographic : 1969 Dec
rugged and harbourless country" as we rolled at anchor one night in a small cove south of the Strait of Khios. "Thousands of ships must have waited here before us," Irving mused, "hoping for a favorable wind to get them into the Bay of Izmir." The Grosvenors' son Edwin was flying in to Izmir, and we wanted to meet his plane. "But no one has a valve on the wind," Irving noted. So we waited, doing jobs we save for such moments: Change the engine oil. Repack the rudder-post stuffing box. Gam over coffee. And speculate about the weather. We wrote letters and logs. And we read old Strabo's Geography. Then came our break, and we continued "to another gulf, on which is the old Smyrna." As the author described that most beautiful city, "a part of it is on a mountain and walled, but the greater part of it is in the plain near the harbour...." Much has happened since. Here in 1922 the Turks at last pushed a Greek army into the sea, setting off one of the greatest transplants of humanity in history. Within three years the two nations exchanged almost two million people in a sorting out of nationals who had been intersettling since medieval times.* The victory by the Turks also ensured the success of the revolution that modernized their homeland. Smyrna, rebuilt, is the thriving port of Izmir. "New City" Dates From Alexander's Time New as Izmir seems, an ageless identity endures. Ruins on a site chosen by Alexander the Great are called the "new city," because of an even older Smyr na across the bay. We rode up Alexander's hill for its commanding view: a city of high-rises, glass, and modern design. We joined Mel and Anne on a visit to the U. S. Con sulate to see their old family friends the Guy Lees. Mr. Lee, the consul general, had an office overlooking the waterfront, "the number-one port for Turkish ex ports," Mr. Lee said with hometown pride. "You see those freighters just there? They're taking on cotton and dried fruit-the leading exports. Down the list we rank tobacco, oranges, chrome." Yankee took on supplies of her own, so we got to explore the old marketplace, a marvel of crowded walkways and jostling, haggling shoppers. Pushcarts filled with strawberries and lettuce made traffic jams, jewelry shops glittered, saddles exuded a scent of leather. Next to the minaret of the Kestanepazari Mosque we passed the deafening percussion of black smiths beating out hinges and hoes in a shower of sparks. Nearby we examined the smoke-smudged remains of an old caravansary, a historic site, for Izmir had been a stop on the Asian caravan routes. Izmir airport was the final stop on a long trail for young Edwin, just out of school in the U.S.A. and now joining us aboard Yankee. He arrived, a handsome *Melville Chater wrote an eyewitness account of the massive treks in the November 1925 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC. 830 Mighty head and hand from a statue of the first-century Roman Emperor Domi tian awe visitors to a museum at Izmir, ancient Smyrna. Rome ruled Asia Minor from the second century B.C . until A.D . 330, when Constan tine the Great shifted the seat of imperial power from the barbarian-menaced Eter nal City to Constantinople. KODACHROMES BY EDWINSTUARTGROSVENOR(RIGHT) ANDJOSEPHJ. SCHERSCHEL© N.G.S. Stilted Pied Piper, advertising a circus, leads children through the streets of Dikili, a small Aegean port that serves as the jump-off point for visits to modern Ber gama and the ruins of Pergamum. Today's circus has violent antecedents in the man-versus-lion combats, mock sea battles, and gladiatorial duels staged by Roman emperors. Enormous theaters, whose ruins can still be seen at the sites of Ephesus, Pergamum, Smyrna, and Side, rivaled those at Rome.