National Geographic : 1969 Dec
75 at a time and mostly women-hoed tobacco. The fertile valley was built by the silt that ruined old Ephesus. For centuries that Ionian port made the region prosperous enough to maintain its great pilgrim attraction, the Tem ple of Artemis; we know her better today as Diana. Construction, according to Pliny, "occupied all Asia Minor for 120 years. It was built on marshy soil so that it might not be subject to earthquakes...." Only the marsh survives at the site of the temple, but since Austrian archeologists be gan work here around the turn of the 20th century, Ephesus itself has been transformed. Few ruined cities in all the world can match the grandeur of its colonnades, its broad streets and stairs, its fragmented palaces, 828 temples, arches, and carved reliefs (above and opposite). The hillside theater evokes memories of St. Paul, a three-year resident among the Ephe sians. Here the idol sellers shouted, "Great is Diana of the Ephesians." In the anti-Christian riot that ensued, St. Paul was persuaded to withdraw; soon after, he left town. So did we. Irving and I headed back to Yankee, while Mel and Anne detoured to the National Geographic Society-supported ar cheological dig at Aphrodisias.* When the Grosvenors returned, we con tinued along the Ionian coast, searching for an anchorage. We recalled Strabo's tales of "a *See "Ancient Aphrodisias and Its Marble Treasures," by Kenan T. Erim, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC,August 1967.