National Geographic : 1962 Jul
behind, and at twilight I found myself alone at a deep and swift ford. Leaning on my ironwood stick, I breasted the waist-deep cold current, but on the other side I could not pick up the trail again. I made casts to right and left, like a dog seeking the scent, but thick underbrush and the tangle of wild banana and lantana The "Cocoa Nut is.. showed untrodden green everywhere. a Very Serviceable Chilly Nap Athwart Mountain Trail tree MORRISON There is little twilight in the tropics; swiftly it was dark. I Split ripe coconuts dry in doubled back on my tracks to an open grassy slope and lay down the sun to make copra, across the trail, so that anyone coming up or down would have chief export of Tahiti. the trail, so that anyone coming up or down would have After sunning, the white to step over-or on-me. I had nothing in my pack but cameras; meat is cut out of the waterproofs, blankets, food, and wine were all in the porters' shell and spread on a loads somewhere behind me. metal rack (background) The night wind, the hupe, whistled down the pass. I lay on my to dry more thoroughly back and watched Orion wheel slowly-all too slowly-across over a coconut-husk fire. the narrow strip of sky until he disappeared behind a high shoul Oil extracted from copra der of mountain. Clouds obscured the stars and a cold rain began goes into soaps, cosmet- to fall. In my wet shorts and short-sleeved shirt I shivered and ics, and glycerine for ex- dozed fitfully. plosives. The word Oui-yes- Around midnight a brilliant light shone in my face. In the glare chalked on the drying of gasoline pressure lamps two crayfish fishermen stared at me. rack refers to a French They knew where the porters had made camp, and in the circle referendum on the ques- of white light thrown by their lanterns we recrossed my hard-won tion of Algerian inde- fords and walked half a mile downstream. pendence. EKTACHROME(BELOW) BY N. G. RUTGERS, JR., AND KODACHROMESBY LUOISMARDEN © N.G .S "I have taken some small breadfruit trees" BLIGH When author Marden sailed to Tahiti, he took with him a young breadfruit (lower), grown from the rootstock of a tree transported to Jamai ca by Captain Bligh. Planted in Arue, the dis trict from which it came 168 years before, the tree grew to seven feet within a year (right). Nancy Hall Rutgers, daughter of James Norman Hall, co-author of Mutiny on the Bounty, stands beside it.