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National Geographic : 1962 Aug
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gave evidence of what Dili would become. For two weeks we toured Timor with Por tuguese officials, traveling as far as the east ern tip. There head-hunting had only recently been suppressed again, after people reverted to the practice during the war. Near Vila Nova de Malaca the tall, ornate houses bore reminders of this custom in the bleached nautilus shells decorating the roof tops (page 268). With holes cut for eyes, they looked convincingly like skulls. And at Vila de Ainaro we had a more dramatic demon stration that the custom is only thinly veiled: the loron sae, a victory dance in which the warriors once played football with the heads of their victims. Tribesmen Play Grisly Game by Night "Wars used to be the main diversion of the men," the chief of post told us, "and taking heads was common. It's still not entirely out of their systems. When Governor Filipe The mudo Barata took office, the people wanted to welcome him with a loron sae, but we had to draw the line at using a real head. They said they had one all picked out-the owner was lazy and dishonest anyway. "But don't think the loron sae is a joke," he added seriously. "It's supposed to start at sundown and continue all night. By morning the people are worked to a high pitch of ex citement. To avoid any incidents, we've or dered them not to start this one until 4:30 a.m." Early in the morning we woke to the cries of warriors and the gongs of women spurring them on. Golden headdresses in the shape of buffalo horns, arm bands, and breastplates of the men all glowed under flickering torches as the dancers moved in wild gyrations. As dawn brightened, we could see them kicking something back and forth between groups, slashing at it with long, razor-sharp swords, each blow accompanied by a shriek of self-praise. Two women snatched up piec es of the object and held them triumphantly aloft, while the men danced around them. It was a frightening display, even after we could see it was only a melon. Curious as to Timor's contribution to Por tugal's economy, we questioned the Adminis trator of Dili. Senhor Abilio da Paixao Monteiro, a suave ly handsome man in his starched white uni form, explained: "To the contrary, Portugal contributes to Timor's economy. Timor earns a little foreign exchange-we export some 1,600 tons of coffee annually, plus hides, bees wax, and copra. But the home government 276 Beehivelike Hut of Grass Takes Shape on a Hillside Near Maubisse, Timor
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