National Geographic : 1962 Oct
H5 ETIACHLHMt (AAOVE) AND KODACHROMES the paper mulberry tree. Young women roast ing cacao beans and spreading them to dry. Men cultivating their plantations from the cool of dawn till the thick heat of noon. Afternoon is the time for siesta, and per haps a game of cricket. Samoans play an old style version, learned from early British voy agers (page 575). We left the seaside villages behind, travel ing inland past the beautiful Falefa Falls, where small children dive from a dizzying height into turbulent water, and up over the Mafa Pass. Banana plantations gave way to the bearded trees of rain forest. If our driver came upon people walking the roadside, he gave them free rides. They repaid him with village gossip. Bus Driver Turns Host At the end of the journey, where the bus emptied before turning for Apia again, Albert and I wandered toward the sea. The bus driver, with a smile, called us back. "I have some relatives here, and you must join us in a meal," he insisted. We sat cross-legged, Samoan style, on the matting floor of a fale and ate a simple lunch of fish and breadfruit. The driver asked what I was doing in Samoa. I explained I was writ ing about his country. 590 N.G.S.