National Geographic : 1962 Oct
Aluminum rods hold up a Blanchard tent. Two layers of cloth insulate against cold. Sherpa in red jacket melts snow for water the party needs in large amounts to stave off dehydration. Maka lu looms above ridges that slash Hongu Valley, which the Hillary party crossed. Sherpa Brings Down Peter Mulgrew, Casualty of the Makalu Climb Trying for the top, the Royal New Zea land Navy lieutenantcollapsed from lung damage just short of his goal. Six stout hearted Sherpas took turns ferrying him to safety. Injury, illness, and weather combined to defeat the ascent. After ten days of torment, Lieutenant Mulgrew awaits a helicopter for evacua tion to Katmandu. Raw nose and black ened knuckles attest the frostbite that later necessitated amputation of several fingers and both legs below the knees. Undaunted, Mulgrew hopes to resume mountaineering with artificial limbs.