National Geographic : 1963 Aug
wheeled vehicle can use it (page 222). Deliver ies are made by boy-drawn sleds, sliding down the smooth cobbles. Land Rovers, following a back way that keeps them out of sight, carry weary travelers up from the harbor. The village is best seen by evening and by dawn when the day's rush of visitors is not there. By morning light, we took a run along the oddly named Hobby Drive, a toll road that skirts the clifftops east of Clovelly. A pretty young woman carrying a baby in her arms opened the gate for us, and the charge was three shillings-42 cents. "It is only fourpence if you like to walk," she said. Driving along the rough road, we looked down upon the perfect setting of Clovelly's harbor and farther along had glorious views of the Devon coast as far away as Westward Channel of destruction: In 1952 flood waters in the gorge at right hurled down boulders and trees, devastating low-lying Lynmouth, onetime home of the poet Shel ley. The hotel high on the cliff escaped. Wooded slopes belong to the National Trust. On a walking tour through this country side, Wordsworth and Coleridge planned The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. Beacon fires once blazed atop Lynmouth's tower, guiding mariners into the harbor. Here at low tide the boat basin lies nearly 230 drained; high tide surges to ramp-top.