National Geographic : 1964 Jul
a library-museum; and the Juilliard Shinii School of Music. The $160,700,000 pheus project is due for completion in 1967. Center garian. Our treasurer is from Buenos Aires." In the background harmonized the singing society Frohsinn,meaning gaiety. Mr. Bran deis said: "We're all very German when it comes to eating. We eat Bauernwurst and Bratwurst and Sauerbraten...." Italians eat heartily too. For the annual Festival of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples, lights were strung overhead along Mulberry Street. Smoke rose from booths with hot plates. What was cooking? A man wrote it for me: salsiccia ca' pummarola. "That's Neapolitan for sausages with toma to," said my friend Elio from Rome. "Frank ly, I don't find Italian food in New York very Italian. Maybe your kitchens are too clean." Two loudspeakers on the Rectory of the Church of the Most Precious Blood flooded the street with music: "Sweet Baby, You're the One" and "Shake, Baby, Shake." I talked to a Franciscan friar. What did he think of the carnival stands and all the hubbub? ig bars of Richard Lippold's abstract sculpture "Or and Apollo" hang above a scale model of Lincoln in Philharmonic Hall's glass-walled Promenade. "Isn't it a fine thing," he said, "when money circulates and people are so happy?" A week later Mulberry Street had calmed down. Once more I could sit in peace at the Puglia Restaurant and ponder the things I was learning. Why do Arabs and Norwegians prefer Brooklyn? The U. S. Census says they do. And how, in New York's mixing bowl, has so much cultural treasure remained so pure? The dancing of the Irish, for instance. I had seen it at a ceili-meaning "get-to gether"-of the Connrana Gaeilge na Bronx, the Bronx Gaelic League. Andy McGann's Ceili Band blazed away, and three groups of 16 dancers each did a 16-hand reel-children, young mothers, middle-aged men. They ended with a fierce shout. "An expression of enjoyment," said Mr. Rory O'Flaherty. He wore a gold ring in his lapel, the token of fluency in Gaelic. "Irish dancing is more alive today in New York than in Ireland."