National Geographic : 1964 Aug
together in stormy friendship, discovered the strong light and color of Provence. Greeks settled in Arles, but its greatest sights are the Roman ruins: a theater that seated 16,000, and an amphitheater for 26,000. Two tiers of 60 arches each form the arena's outer walls; today bullfights are held here (pages 164-5 and below). At Arles we pointed Yankee's bow up the Rhone toward Lyon, past ruined castles on 166 the heights, remains of medieval town walls, and lush countryside. From glacial origins in the Swiss Alps, the Rhone gathers volume and power and races to the sea. New dams now are taming its lustiness, and on this trip Yankee could manage the currents under her own power. She carried us past Avignon with its stone bridge celebrated in song, and by such famed vineyards as those of Chateauneuf du Pape (page 168). But on our first trip up in 1960, we were glad to have a tow from a big oil-company barge.