National Geographic : 1964 Sep
EKTACHROME(ABOVE) BY O. LOUIS MAZZATENTA, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICSTAFF, AND KODACHROMEBY EDWIN G. HUFFMAN Not as old as it looks, the Governor's mansion in Annapolis, Maryland, facing the State House (opposite), rose in 1866. In 1936 it underwent remodeling to make it better con form with centuries-old structures in the capital. Today Annapolis fights to preserve its colonial look amid proposals for modern high-rise buildings in historic areas. by sightseers, Fort McHenry let us pass (pages 400-401). The Star-Spangled Banner still waved, an exceptionally large one. Like most of the world's big cities, Balti more has changed drastically in the past few years. Sailing into the inner harbor, I looked in vain for the old wooden piers on cobble stoned Light Street whence the white steam ers sailed to the Chester and the other rivers. Light Street is a wide asphalt highway now. Grass of a new park grows at water's edge. Baltimore Reshapes Its Skyline Of the familiar skyline, only a few of the more substantial buildings remained. One could see farther uptown, across the rubble of landmarks bulldozed to make way for new structures, than anyone has seen since the Great Fire of 1904 leveled downtown Balti more. Practically the entire grimy heart of the old city has been swept clean in a vast urban renewal project. "You remember Peanut Joe's Saloon?" asked veteran newspaperman George Dorsch. 406 "Where we waited standing in an inch of pea- nut hulls for the Sunday bulldog edition to come off the presses? Well, it's gone." Mayor Theodore R. McKeldin, a long-time friend, told me Baltimore is spending more than a billion dollars on a city-wide modern ization program. I expressed sadness at the passing of the likes of Peanut Joe's. The Mayor agreed, at least about some old landmarks. "But go see the new Civic Center," he said. "I do that after I've watched another old building fall." I went, and it cheered me, too. Daringly modern in architecture, the center houses a 90,000-square-foot exhibition hall and a coli seum that will hold 13,500 spectators. I took the Betelgeuse crew on a tour and found some things that have not changed and likely never will. The tall brick Shot Tower, for example, still stands. In the old days they poured molten lead through col anders in the top of this curious structure. Falling into a water tank, the metal became round shot. McCormick and Company still gives the N.G.S.