National Geographic : 1965 May
finger. The old man smiled as if in apology. "Inshallah-As Allah wills." Vic expertly cleaned and dressed the stump, and we gave the old man what coins we had with us. Half an hour later as we began casting off Yankee's lines, we heard a shout and saw our friend running toward us along the bank. He carried a huge bundle of sugar cane-all that our coins could buy in the market. Proudly, smiling and ducking his head, he pol ished each stalk as he presented it. Strangers Ease Yankee's Sorrow at National Tragedy Thanksgiving's approach brought unexpected sorrow. One evening beyond Asyut, as we lay moored against the bank, a kindly Egyptian in Western dress beckoned Ahmed aside. "I have bad news for Aruusa," he said, nodding toward Yankee. "It is their President, Mr. Kennedy-dead by an assassin." He gestured help lessly. "Please, I cannot tell them." Ahmed did as he was bidden, almost unable himself to talk. We sat quietly for a long time. During the following weeks, strangers constantly sought to comfort us, some in painfully rehearsed English, others with a wordless shake of the hand. Never in all our travels have we felt closer to another people than in those moments of unlooked-for kindness. One morning, 350 miles and three weeks out of Cairo, we reached Nag Hammadi Bridge and joined clusters of feluccas waiting for the span to open. As it did, a file of feluccas with immense loads of straw and cane went scudding upriver, looking like squared haystacks with sails. Plainly, the helmsman at the stern was blind to what lay ahead, so each captain shouted orders from atop the haystack. EKTACHROME(OPPOSITE) AND KODACHROME(O NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY "Half sunk, a shattered visage lies..." wrote Percy Bysshe Shelley of the colossus of Ramesses II at the Ramesseum in Thebes. Tumbled to earth ages ago, the shattered statue once measured 57 feet high and weighed 1,000 tons. Perched high on a cliff, the author photographs the temple of Queen Hatshepsut at Deir el Bahri. A powerful female Pharaoh, she announced her right to the throne by claiming divine birth, then reared this glory of colonnades, terraces, and 606 promenades to house her tomb and assure her veneration.