National Geographic : 1965 Oct
families thronged the shoreline, mending nets and caulking hulls. Beached boats jammed the sands and adjacent streets. Squat and shallow, they curved up into high, pointed prows (pages 474-5). Recalling vessels of the ancient world, they lend credence to the local theory that the fisherfolk are descended from Phoenician seafarers. The names of the gaily painted boats-Gloria A Deus, Vai Com Jesus Cristo-reflectedthe deep faith that sustains the men of Nazara. Among all the pious names, in fact, I came upon only one worldly note. A noncomformist had christened his rowboat Linda Darnell. For reasons unknown, the traditional garb of Nazare is bright wool tartan-wildly mismatched shirts and trousers for the men, skirts worn in layers of seven for the women. A girl balancing a basket of gleaming fish on her head swung past me, all grace and plaid and swishing skirts. I wondered if one day she would end, like so many of her sisters, as a black-shawled widow haunting the beach, 483 KODACHROMES© NATIONALGEOGRAPHICSOCIETY Tumbling crags of granite wall off the province of Beira Baixa from the rest of Portugal. Shepherd guards his flock near the village of Monsanto. In the distance, beyond the Rio Erges, lies Spain. Enjoying the evening, a woman of Monsanto rests on her rock balcony. With no garden space available, she suspends flowerpots from the walls. Her timeless village clings to the stony brow of a moun tain. Villagers build their houses and streets from rocks and even hew dwellings out of the granite. Local herdsmen and farm ers preserve folkways that hark back to antiquity. In a national competition, Mon santo won the title "Most Portuguese Village in Portugal."