National Geographic : 1954 Feb
186 .lustini. o,. . Basque Rosquillas Have the Shape but Not the Taste of Doughnuts Molded from dough, baked crisp, and sprinkled with sugar, the rosquilla is to Basque fiestas what hot dogs are to American picnics. These confections go on sale at Zarauz, a resort on the Bay of Biscay. Coming down, we looked into a vast basin ringed by mountains. Here golden sunlight dusted Durango's dark-red roofs and turned its river into silver. We entered Guernica an hour before sunset. Center of Basque Tradition A garage mechanic stared when I inquired the way to the town's historic treasure, the Tree of Guernica. "You are a friend of ours," he stated rather than asked, as he gave us the directions. Under this oak the Parliament of Biscav once met to swear allegiance to its king and to hear him, in turn, swear to maintain the Basques' traditional rights and laws. The tree has become a symbol of Basque unity. When we found Guernica's Tree, we saw that it no longer lives. Only a stump remains. It saddened me to think that this tree is dead and that French and Spanish Basques are now united only by race and tradition. My gloom was brightened by an old Basque whom we met by the dead stump. He led us to a young oak planted near by. "Will it live?" I asked. "One never knows." Then, sensing my meaning, he added, "But we Basques have lived a long, long time."