National Geographic : 1944 Sep
J.H.Ball Three Men on a Big One Must Move Fast to Escape a Flank Attack from Their Left When a curl-over like this starts, it usually spreads all along the wave, making the ride difficult at best-oftenimpossible. The surfers will stay on aslong as they can; then try to dive under to escape a mauling in the white foam. Experts scorn rollers under 10 feet high.The technique istocatch the comber just asit goes humping past. The surfer who misses the crest kneels on the board and "scratches," or paddles madly, to get inposition.