National Geographic : 1944 Sep
Surf-Boarders Capture California Ki-i~ " :p- J. H. Ball White Water Means Rough Going on Even a Small Wave As the foam spreads this expert will' need all his cunning to avoid a spill. Duke Kahanamoku, famous Hawaiian swimming champion, started the sport in Southern California years ago by taking the ride of his life on the booming winter surf with a board from his native land. Though California rollers do not travel so far as those at Waikiki, they move faster, rise higher, and are much steeper. Surfers now enjoy the pastime along 100 miles of coast from Malibu, Los Angeles suburb, to San Onofre, 50 miles above San Diego.