National Geographic : 1947 Jun
Spiral Tunnels Boost This Train Across Kicking Horse Pass Jagged Mount Stephen looks down on a Canadian Pacific train laboring the 10 miles between Field and Hector, British Columbia. A few minutes ago the locomotive entered Mount Ogden, across the valley, and, in a 2,922-foot loop, climbed 45 feet. Later it plunged into Cathedral Mountain tunnel, shown in the foreground. Having twisted 3,255 feet, it is emerging - another 48 feet higher (page 779). Dungarees, lumberjacks, sleeping bags, and duffels! These engrossed our minds that night as we slept in urban luxury in the Tunnel Mountain home of Mrs. Byron Harmon, widow of the artist-photographer who "through his photographs has given the Canadian Rockies to the world." * Sleep in an Indian Tepee Twenty-four hours later we were each lying in a sleeping bag on spruce-bough mattresses. I in one Indian tepee and my wife in another. As I wriggled to find a softer lump for my hip, my thoughts dwelt on city com fort. We were "having a won derful time" with the Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies. Our base camp of about 20 tepees, sheltering 60 "dudes" and assorted wranglers, was situ ated in an open grassy valley beside the Panther River, 30 miles north of Banff. High mountains were all around. Buses had brought us partway up the Cascade River fire road. Then for 17 pictur esque miles we had become inti mately acquainted with the con tours of the Western saddle and the rugged individualist that wears it. What puzzles me is why a dude is called a tender foot! Recollection of that first eve ning fails beyond a dim impres sion of hunting for sleeping bags, pulling branches for bedmaking from ready-cut piles of spruce boughs, and creaking into bed. I can't even remember eating. In what seemed moments I was awakened by one of my three tepee mates stretching a shivering arm out of the covers to light a fire. In 15 minutes the tepee was warm. Soon raven ous dudes were making short work of eating eggs and flap jacks. Long tables had been considerately erected so that saddle-sore Trail Riders could eat standing up! * See "Peaks and Trails in the Ca nadian Alps," 13 ills. in duotone from photographs by Byron Harmon, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, May, 1934.