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National Geographic : 1947 Nov
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Yemen-Southern Arabia's Mountain Wonderland Alfred Al.1'almer As in Biblical Days, a Camel Raises Water from a San'a Well Walking down an incline, the animal draws water for drinking, cooking, or irrigation. In the latter case, the bucket is emptied into a clay channel and the water flows to the desired field. Irrigation in Yemen depends partially on retention of flood waters within mud or clay banks. doubtless been imported especially for us. Ismail, a knowledgeable fellow who spoke French, said he had worked on French ships for several years. Next morning I was awakened by the sound of bugles and strange band music. Looking out of the window, I saw a military band play ing bass and snare drums, cymbals, two French horns, and eleven bugles. The music sounded weird to my ears. Behind the band came about five companies of barefooted soldiers in Arab dress, in good marching order and carrying rifles. We won dered whether they had been sent to impress us, but were told later that this was a usual Wednesday-morning performance. Ta'izz, Walled City of 15,000 After breakfast we learned that the Crown Prince was suffering from an illness and would not be able to see us that day. I expressed sympathy and said that if Monty could render any assistance I was sure he would be glad to offer it. Accompanied by a guard of two soldiers, we went for a drive in the gardens below the guesthouse, where we saw a small field of alfalfa and another of tomatoes; pumpkins, bananas, cotton plants, and pomegranates were growing in a plot of shrubbery. Then we drove through the gates of the large mud wall surrounding the town and, amid crowds which probably included most of the population of 15,000, saw the beautiful Mudhaffer Mosque and other notable edifices. The market place of Ta'izz is crowded, like all sukhs, but otherwise the city has an agree able air of spaciousness. The oldest feature is the ancient wall, above the town, along which a conduit once passed. We saw the covered stone and cement troughs which direct the city's present water supply down from the mountains. Ta'izz faces north, away from the foot of 643
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