National Geographic : 1948 Jan
The National Geographic Magazine Bottle and Goblet, Twisted Mementos of Pelee's Fires St. Pierre's Volcanological Museum preserves these and other relics of the 1902 eruption. Iron nails are melted into an ingot. Books show every page charred. An electric bulb, fused into other objects, still lights (page 14). tures, arranged for services, and did nearly all the maintenance. We had no scheduled watches, but all took turns at the helm; the three of us had sailed together so much that orders were unnecessary. Usually Al and I were able to do the deck work alone, one at the wheel and the other handling the sails, but when it blew hard Zib took the wheel so that the two of us could wrestle with the canvas. After a night at Vieux Fort, the most east erly point of the cruise, we slid along the lee ward coast of St. Lucia to be awed by the Gros and Petit Pitons, among the most spec tacular sights of the world (Plate XV). St. Lucia has been called "The Fair Helen of the West Indies." Certainly few objectives fore the hoisting of Near by is Pigeon in history have occa sioned bitterer strug gles. Six times in the possession of the French since 1760, seven times retaken by the British! Towering over land locked Castries harbor is the Morne Fortun', whose ramparts were the key to the entire West Indies. Its slopes ran red with French and English blood. But today the jungle encroaches on its ceme tery, and the imposing buildings on its crest crumble in ruin (page 10). On several after noons, sitting with friends, we looked out over a tranquil plateau dotted with grazing sheep and playing chil dren. I thought of that 24th of May, 1796. when the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers stormed and took the Morne Fortune in the face of bitter French opposition. So gallant was the regiment's conduct that Sir Ralph Aber cromby, the British commander, ordered the regiment's own flag flown for one hour be British colors. Island, the site of Rod- ney's lookout during the blockade of the French fleet in Martinique. There I had my worst moments of the cruise: to reach the island I rented a native canoe. From the first I noticed the boat was leak ing, but assumed it was not too bad. Soon water was swirling around my ankles, and wooden objects were afloat in the bilge. One boy stopped rowing and began to bail in leisurely fashion. Suddenly it dawned that the water would sink us within minutes and three precious cameras aboard! Wedging camera bags on the seat, I knelt on the bottom and frantically scooped water with both hands while yelling at the two boys.