National Geographic : 1948 Apr
Two New Dominions Clash over Kashmir, India's Northernmost State Tribesmen from Moslem Pakistan (stripes) fought their way into the Minnesota-size State of Jammu and Kashmir last October. To get armed help, its Hindu Maharaja announced its "provisional" accession to the Hindu-ruled Dominion of India (dots), although the bulk of his people are Moslems. India's Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, a Kashmiri Hindu, sent immediate airborne aid, and sharp fighting followed. Later the case was laid before the United Nations Security Council. The lofty Himalayan State lies close to Russia and adjoins Sinkiang. Its heart is the fruitful Vale of Kashmir, along the Jhelum River between the mountains of Jammu and towering, lonely Gilgit and Ladakh. the narrower, more graceful, but shabbier dungas on which native families live and die were moored along the shore or crawled like crabs from place to place under the patient urging of poles (Plates IV-V). "All That Glitters Is Not Gold" Along the banks women washed clothes, men unloaded wood or grain, and both sexes performed their ablutions. From a balconied building overhanging the river came the monotonous drone of Moham medan schoolboys learning the Koran by rote. As we neared the heart of Srinagar's Old Town, a particularly conspicuous Hindu tem ple mirrored in the water caught my eye. Its gracefully tapering roof gleamed as if with gold. Closer investigation showed that the temple had been roofed with tin from old kerosene cans. Rusting, these produced the golden glint. In contrast, many of the Hindu temples which dot the Kashmir landscape have en dured for centuries. In some, now ruined and abandoned, I noted traces of Greek archi tectural features, for ancient Greece began to make its arts and power felt in northern India in the time of Alexander the Great.* * See "Greece-the Birthplace of Science and Free Speech," by Richard Stillwell, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, March, 1944, and "Afghanistan Makes Haste Slowly," by Maynard Owen Williams, Decem ber, 1933.