National Geographic : 1935 Jan
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Wilhelm Tobien TINY HOUSES ARE CROWNED WITH OVERSIZE CHIMNEYS Cooking is done in huge stone ovens, whose size is indicated by the strangely shaped sentinels on the roof tops. Some are eight feet wide where they rise from the kitchen. These are humble homes in the upper part of Angra do Heroismo. French, and two American-are housed. They transmit, through many systems of channels, messages to stations in North America, Europe, and South Africa, and, by interconnection, to every part of the world. Four staffs do the work of re laying. In the center of the building is a four-way window through which messages, mainly in code, are passed. Thus, should Jones and Jenks of New York cable to their Rome representative, the message, received by one of the two American com panies, is handed through the window and a moment later is being received in Italy. The foreign colony of 200 has dwindled of late to half this number. Since the severe earthquake of 1926, Horta has been rebuilt and its harbor is now being dredged. The surrounding country is captivatingly fresh and green, the heights surmounted by circular stone windmills. The miller blows his horn to notify the farmers that the wind is up and the sails are set to grind the grain. Locally made articles for sale in Horta include exquisite lace, objects made from whales' teeth, and fragile, snow-white carv ings from the pith of the figtree. It is a night's sail from Fayal to the jagged rock of Corvo, a single extinct vol cano which thrusts only its head above the sea. We reached it at dawn of a rainy day and went ashore in a rowboat, climbing up the slippery stone incline to the island's one settlement, Rosario (see page 60). Corvo's 700 hardy sons and daughters, whose home is lashed in winter by the sea in its fury, are isolated for weeks at a time, even from their only near neighbors on the island of Flores, 12 miles away. In spite of hard work and exposure, they are a sturdy lot, living a simple, contented life. Money is scarce, but sufficient maize, wheat, veg etables, and grapes are raised to supply local needs, and the diminutive breed of Corvo cattle yields abundant rich milk. The islanders are practically vegetarians in spite of the marine life about them. There are no locks on the doors; there is no need of a jail. The schoolmaster is the local administrator; the priest is the counselor. Should someone be attacked by an agonizing toothache, sails are set for the dentist on the island of Flores, if the sea is not too rough.