National Geographic : 1939 Jan
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE we ever won was in combating the intro duction of bullfighting into Turkey. Its sponsors had built an arena; tickets were sold for the opening fight. No legal grounds for an injunction could be found. However, at the eleventh hour it was ruled that no bull might be killed-a Portialike adjudi cation of the issue!" An invitation for dinner at istanbul American College coincided with the only brilliant day of my stay. Four years ago the administrations of Robert College and of the American College for Girls at Istan bul were combined under one president. Turkish Government officials refer to the two colleges as one institution-Istanbul American College. The fine scholastic tra dition established by their founders 75 years ago is being continued (page 5). A PANORAMA OF HISTORY From my host's balcony on that superb bluff above the Bosporus,* we looked down upon the subtly smiling, current-dimpled waters which link the Black Sea with the Marmara (Marmara Denizi). The cren elated gray wall of Rumili Hisar, 15th century citadel, cut a jagged section from our view of the strait which at this narrowest point is scarcely half a mile wide. Leander's Tower on the shore marked a popular beach where in summer mixed bathers make faster records than that of Hero's lover. Other popular places are Florya (page 5), Biiyiikdere, Biiyiik Island, Moda, and Kalamis (map, pages 8-9). Hidden around a wide curve of shore line lay the Dolma Bahqe Palace, which President Atatiirk made his summer head quarters (page 10). "The President, the ministers, and the entire diplomatic corps will be moving down here in a few weeks," said the profes sor. "Now, before the hot days come, is the time for you to head for the capital. Spend as much time as you can spare in Ankara; there is the experimental labora tory for this ambitious nation." With a large map spread upon a table, we sketched out a route for my journey through Anatolia-that Anatolia of the Hittites and Seljuks, where now dynamos and wheels have commenced their driving whine.t A daily plane dashes in two hours from Istanbul to the capital. Lowering skies and poor visibility made me prefer the railroad. In my pocket was a yellow "People's Mileage Ticket," bearing a pho tographic libel of myself and my name, written "Bay Santler." This was a bargain, guaranteeing two months' continuous travel on any line for about $60. For miles the railway line skirts the Sea of Marmara, a Turkish Riviera of compell ing charm. At a point well toward the apex of the bay of Izmit (Nicomedia) lies the Turkish naval base, with fleet at anchor. Eastward we mount toward the high Anatolian plateau. In a jungle-grown waste of small trees moves a herd of camels browsing; storks hold a plebiscite upon a marshy plain. I noted one example of for bidden headgear, a turban worn by an aged farmer, his white beard arched toward the brown earth in which he toils. The new Ankara railroad station resounds with early-morning arrival and departure. Except for that of Helsinki, I know of none more impressive. There is a theatrical unreality about this city when one first glimpses its geometri cal, "little-Washington" formation, spread ing out under the crumbling peak of the Citadel (Plate VIII). That ankyra is the Greek word meaning "anchor" is significant, for it is here that the passionate spirit of nationalism has at tached itself, radiating outward, fanwise, to the provinces. EMERALD CITY ON A GRAY STEPPE Atatirk Boulevard, broader than Broad way but not so wayward, will shortly be eligible to contend for first place in a Green est Streets Olympic of world capitals. Al ready parks line its sides from midtown to the President's mansion, built on the shoulder of Cankaya slope. Hose-and bucket bearers water the roots of scores of thousands of fast-growing acacias. A law passed last spring requires that every citizen in the rural districts shall, between the last week in February and the first week in March, plant a tree, and care for it for one year. *See "Beside the Bosporus, Divider of Conti nents," by Maynard Owen Williams, in the NA TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, October, 1929. t See "Change Comes to Bible Lands," by Fred erick Simpich, in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAG AZINE, December, 1938, and the supplement, "Map of Bible Lands and the Cradle of Western Civiliza tion"; also, "Crossing Asia Minor," by Maj. Robert Whitney Imbrie, October, 1924, and "East of Con stantinople," by Melville Chater, May, 1923.