National Geographic : 1916 Oct
Photograph by A. W. Cutler BUT ONE THOUGHT FILLS THE MIND OF HALE THE MOTHERS AND CHILDREN IN THE WORLD-TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT WILL KEEP FATHER AND BROTHER WARM IN THE TRENCHES During the afternoon drive, which is an institution throughout all Italy, an endless procession flashes past the park, to the pistoling of whips, the running ob ligato of chatter and exclamation, shout of encouragement, and execration for careless driving. Everybody drives. The lofty drag of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Aosta rolls sol emnly along behind magnificent bays in stately silence; tourists "rubber" by in hired hacks; a motley array of shabby genteel carriages contains a nobility too proud to omit the drive if they have to go to bed supperless, and snappy little gigs and carts, brilliant with paint and varnish, dance along behind fiery minia ture barbs decked out in all the toggery of feathers and bells and fancy leather that Italian ingenuity can suggest. Nowhere are there such experts at extracting frightful explosions from a whiplash as in this happy-go-lucky Naples; nowhere such a tumult of sound and color; no where such light-hearted irresponsibility. The commercial activity of this largest city and second seaport of Italy clings close about the skirts of the enormous royal palace-800 feet long on the bay side and 95 feet high-and the naval basin and dockyard. Every smell and sound of a thriving seaport may be smelt and heard, multiplied generously; every flag seen on the ships that ride at anchor near the stone wharves. BABEL LESS CONFUSED On the streets men of every race min gle tongues and costumes and manners; Babel itself was only mildly confused compared with this jumble of Naples; and throughout all the throng play the beggar, the street musician, the macaroni eater-that is a trade, and a satisfying one, apparently-the piratic cabman, the guide, and the baggage-smasher-all seek ing whom they may plunder with a gra cious twinkle of humid black eyes and a smile that makes the being robbed a pleasure.