National Geographic : 1918 Jun
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 535 On the other hand, the land, attacked by chemical change, eroded by wind and running water, is an unending succession of elevations and depressions, and whenever there is a subsidence <ort .oc the sea seeks out every foot of ground below its level and oc cupies it. Only the highest waves ever lash the sea bottom beyond a depth of 26 feet, and at 600 feet even the ripple-marks of a gen tle surge disappear. THE WINDS A BOLSHEVIK ARMY From the Virginia capes south ward, one may see the same forces at death grips that are found on the Jersey and other coasts. But neither at Cape Cod nor in Jersey will one behold to such advantage the role played by the wind, the Bolshevik of the land and sea war, as in the region V of the kingly capes and in the vi cinity of Hatteras. Now it boldly marshals its forces alongside those of the water and urges on the attack with the utmost aban don. And now, repentant of that role, it steps in and helps the land erect great barriers of sand, against which the wildest sea, in its maddest moments charges in vain. ( The winds are the makers of s dunes, the tanks in nature's war- o, SKETCH MAP OE SANDY HOOK 4' A little south of Sandy Hook, ath a1 Long Branch, the highlands yield a continuous supply of sand to the ac- vei tion of the waves. This is washed up and down the beach with each ad vancing and retiring wave, but with each movement it is brought down to a place northerly of where it ,E started, as the waves strike the shore obliquely and from a southerly di rection. So the sand is carried along until it is deposited in deeper water, where the wave action is not so vig orous, gradually building up the bot tom in much the same manner as a delta is built up at the mouth of a river. Sandy Hook is the result of o . this action aided by the winds which Statute Miles blow the wave-brought sands into dunes.