National Geographic : 1921 Apr
MODERN PERSIA AND ITS CAPITAL :0I ' KX~i *HIV irr c, Ea^*^|.^ I ^p ~ls~ S.,.*"* *««' , *' '^ 8^ ^ ^ ^^ ^ Photogral'h from Faye Fisher A GROI''P OF AMOLRNERS OBSERVING TIllE RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL OF MOIIARRAM BY FIAGEILLATION The men who participate in the rites in honor of the assassinated losein (see illustration on opposite page) work themselves up to such a pitch of frenzy that they go through the streets shrieking and striking their heads with long knives. At such vantage points a mendicant der vish, sketchily garbed in a tattered crazy quilt, is usually on hand to croak "Ya Hakk" at the passerby (see Plate VIII). TIIIE POMPOUS PERSIAN GROCER AND 1IS STOC K The narrow cross-street from this in teresting corner to the northern end of Ihiaban-e-Lalehzar, one square to the east, passes a number of typical native groceries. These are merely large stalls set in the street wall, with almost the en tire stock in trade exhibited at the broad entrance-long cones of sugar and strings of very-much evaporated figs suspended overhead, and matches, soap, and trays of rice, dried beans and fruits, raisins and walnuts displayed on the broad sloping counter, where the passer-by can bargain with the fat proprietor without entering. The green grocer, also, has on display his entire assortment of lettuce, spinach, onions, tomatoes, pomegranates, apples, oranges, peaches, grapes, and long, yel low melons-in fact, a very wide variety of seasonable vegetables and fruits- which he has grouped with natural art in a beautiful harmony of color in pleasing contrast to the dingy street. True, they are open to the flies and street dust, but this fails to annoy the average patron. The pompous grocer himself is an im posing type in his flapping, capacious trousers and skirted robe, belted at the waist with a voluminous sash or shawl, green in color if by good fortune he is a descendant of the Prophet. He anoints his beard and finger nails with henna, and if he should lift his large, egg-shaped, black felt hat he would reveal a modish haircut that has left smoothly shaven a five-inch path straight back over the top of his head. Khiaban-e-Lalehzar is Teheran's Fifth Avenue and the pride of all the inhab itants. In the evening this short street is thronged with male promenaders.